Showing posts with label Gees Bend. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gees Bend. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

DELTA QUILT SERIES: 'We Made Them to Keep Warm' The Untraditional Southern Quilt

 

LAZY GIRL VARIATION--source

"The descriptive words improvisation, strip pieced, multiple patterns, brightly colored and rhythmic were all true of African American quilts. But these features are also traditional in a number of white communities. The style is ubiquitous in the American South. Historians have found it to be a product of economics, not race, used by both blacks and whites to quickly make warm quilts out of whatever they had."
 
HOUSETOP

Most  rural Southern women had a difficult life. . .working from sun up to sun down, caring for their family in what was often a meager subsistence living. . .They did the best they could with very little. . .One of their challenges was providing warm coverings for the family beds.
Rural quilts were made for everyday use out of necessity. . .Warm blankets were expensive and fabric was scarce. . .The economic culture that these women were raised in taught them that everything had a use. . .so Southern women made quilts from scraps of fabric, discarded clothing, feed and flour sacks. . .Their make-do attitude reminds us that unimportant, trivial, and meaningless things can be made useful.
 

QUILT by CATHERINE SOMERVILLE

Traditional quilt making was slow and labor intensive, often taking months to complete. . .Southern women helped to speed the process up by improvisation and using the most primitive of quilting stitches to sandwich the layers together. . .At the same time, the aesthetic wasn't lost. . .There is something within women that they aspire to find beauty and purpose in the most mundane of tasks. . .and so it was with their piecing. . .They made quilts that were not originally created as pieces of art. . .as many are considered today. . .but they were pleasing combinations often compared to JAZZ. . .being described as exciting. . .improvised. . .vibrant. . .movement. . .  

COTTON WORK PANTS, Ga 1940s
 
Before learning about rural Southern quilt characteristics, I saw the old tattered pieces for years at yard sales and flea markets, thinking them of no consequence. . .just a rag-tag bunch of coverings. . .giving them no respect. . .never looking closely at them. . .How many I passed by still haunts me. . .It wasn't until I ran across the quilts of Gees Bend that I gathered a new admiration for the common 'utility' quilt. . .I suddenly had a new perspective for the rural Southern technique of piecing. . .


GEE'S BEND, Alabama

The African American quilting traditions definitely influenced that technique. . .There is no question about it. . .The best known source for documentation of African American quilting are those quilts made by the women of Gee's Bend, Alabama. . .They have experienced many recognitions for their particular style that has remained relatively unaltered. . .They were pretty much cut off from the world, so quilting styles were passed down from mother to daughter. . .friend to friend. . .without outside influence for well over 100 years. . .Because of their isolation, history tells us that this quilting knowledge remained fairly 'pure'. . .documenting the African-American technique without outside influence.
 
 
 
Their creations are distinctively different from our familiar Euro-American styles. . .They are irregular in pattern, color combinations, and fabrics. . .Experts for years called such quilts as 'mistakes in workmanship and design' or deem them as 'unlovely quilts'. . .Only in the last 40 years have these quilts come to be accepted for what they are--not mistakes but distinctive in their own style and loose set of techniques. . . Yet, Gees Bend quilts were not the only ones found in the South . . .My eyes were opened to other similar quilting styles while attending a Regional Farm and Gin Show in Memphis, Tennessee a few years ago, where I met an African-American artist from South Carolina by the name of Floyd Gordon. . .In several of his paintings and prints I found similar quilts to those of Gees Bend. . .

 
 
 I asked Floyd where he got the inspiration for the patterns of his painted quilts.
His answer was, "From my childhood and what I saw growing up."
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I realized these South Carolina women probably never met anyone from Gees Bend, and here they were sharing the same traditions. . .This revelation certainly opened my eyes to the possibilities. . .It seemed apparent  that,  although Gees Bend quilts are the best known, the type of quilt making found there represents many Southern quilts found in other states. . .The use of symbols, asymmetry, bright colors, and vertical piecing are techniques that are found throughout the South. . .in white, as well as black, communities. . .I also found as I researched the cotton plantation lifestyle, that the piecing style took the same western route of cotton production. . .from the Carolinas to Georgia to Alabama to Mississippi to Arkansas. . .As Cotton depleted the soil of nutrients, landowners were forced to move ever westward. . .taking their slaves with them.
After the Civil War, many freed slaves began sharecropping, following the same landowners for whom they had been slaves. . .Moving from the Atlantic coast to the Mississippi Delta and into Texas, so followed the African American style of quilting. . .acquiring the interest of white sharecroppers who incorporated many of the African-American techniques into their own covers. . .It is well documented that black and white sharecroppers often lived side-by-side. . .working close to each other. . .They shared. . .or observed. . .each others ways of cooking. . .of gardening. . .and certainly of quilting. . It appears that by the time farmers and sharecroppers reached this part of the Northeast Arkansas Delta, the rural Southern quilt truly had less to do with race than the economic condition of the maker. . .and that the lines of demarcation in culture were somewhat blurred. . .much like our food. . .To this day, my favorite meal is ham and beans or red beans and rice, cornbread, fried okra and greens. . .all influenced by the Southern black culture.
I would go one step further to say that here in the Dell area, economics didn't play as big a part as did the frugality of the times in which our grandparents lived. . .from pioneering new land to the economic collapse of the Great Depression. . .although sharecropper and tenant women did have a bigger challenge before them.
 
Possibly GEES BEND
 
 
For many years I researched the background history of our untraditional Southern quilts and my appreciation for them grew. . .I was drawn to them. . .and began a collection of my own. . .They are mostly made in Northeast Arkansas, but a few have come via other Delta towns in this state. . .I will be sharing those quilts with you as we journey through this series. . .For this post, I have only included representative quilts from the South, several of which are from Gees Bend. . .The place I started my research.
 
QUILT by  LAVERNA BRACKENS
 
 

BLUE JEANS POCKETS BY ESSIE LEE ROBINSON
 



"The naming of the quilts are as unique as the quilts themselves. . .names such as Mousetrap, Pig Pen, Housetop, Lazy Girl, Everybody, Slap Jack, and Britches. . .are not found in traditional quilts. . ."

MOUSETRAP--source
 
 
 
HOUSETOP VARIATION--source
 
 
 
EVERYBODY QUILT 



PIG PEN--source  



LAZY GIRL--source

 

SLAP JACK--source
 
THE UNTRADITIONAL QUILT IN NORTHEAST ARKANSAS
Compared to the other Southern states. . .and the Delta plantations in south Arkansas of an earlier date. . .North Mississippi County, Arkansas was a late bloomer. . .Only a handful of families lived in our local area before 1900. . .It wasn't until the swamps were drained and the forests were cleared that the farmers moved in around 1914. . buying up cut-over land for very little cost. . .We became a melting pot of many races and cultures. . .the last frontier of Arkansas. . .Class lines were not as distinctive as in other Southern states, although still present. . .Not taking anything away from the African American aesthetic and their influence on all Southern quilt piecing, I began to see how, through the years and from state to state, these quilts became a staple of many households whether black or white. . .


Quilters from Mississippi were probably the greatest influence of the rural Southern quilt here in the Northeast Arkansas Delta. . .although other states were also represented. . .I had the opportunity to visit Tallahatchie County, Mississippi, where the well-known Tutwiler Quilters craft their version of the Southern quilt. . .They make their quilts in a style reminiscent of the Gees Bend techniques . . .and certainly their choice of colors and combinations for all their quilts are in the Southern quilting style. . .For me, it helped to verify that we have a common history.

TUTWILER QUILTERS, MS
 
Quilt historians have found that, for the most part, black women made their quilts in the same styles that were popular with the general population during any given period. As quilters draw from a common history one cannot look at a quilt and easily identify the cultural background of the artist. There has always been a great deal of overlapping in quilting styles among different communities and cultures.
To add to the confusion, economic status usually dictated the kinds of quilts made by women regardless of their cultural heritage. Poorer women have always had to make do with scraps and discarded clothing. White and black women alike found "string" quilting to be an efficient way to use this fabric.. .Womenfolk 
 
ROOF TOP--Source

Out of curiosity as to the home state of early sharecropper/tenants, I went to the 1930 U.S. Census of Hector Township, Mississippi County, Arkansas. . .There I found a few of my Grandfather's farms close to the present day Roseland area. . . As a stroke of luck, the enumerator wrote the farm owner's names along the side of the page. . .I was better able to count successfully the states represented on and around my Grandfather's farms. . . the Martin and Magers Farm, the Earl Magers Roseland Farm beside R. C. Rose, and the Harding and Magers Farm. . .I also included that part of the Simmons plantation in the same sections but not belonging to my Grandfather. . .Many of the families working on different farms lived side by side, making it impossible to totally distinguish property lines on the census. . .Only counting the heads of households, it was not surprising that the top three states represented were Mississippi at 54%. . .Arkansas (south) at 16%. . .Alabama at 11%. . .and the remainder 19% from Georgia, Louisiana, Texas, and Tennessee. . .I also found that many of the families from Mississippi had parents or grandparents born in the Carolinas, Georgia, or Alabama. . .following the route of the Southern plantations.
 I wasn't surprised. . .

BRITCHES QUILT--source


IN SUMMARY
Many Southern quilts have surfaced in the last 20 years across the country and have absorbed the interest of the collectors and the public eye that responds to the arts. . . They are the ones that go way beyond the traditional pattern construction. . .making them interesting and full of surprises. . .These quilts speak to people in a way that a modern painting would if you came across it in a museum. . . The quilts rarely seem boring. . .They usually have movement. . color. . .modern art style. . .rural quilts from the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, and Texas. . .
With this little bit of background, in future posts I'll explore and share some of the basic patterns and symbols of the rural Southern quilt. . .and the various techniques. . .We may construct a few lap quilts together. . .as I share some of the actual quilts in my collection. . .TIL THEN. . .ALWAYS REMEMBER. . .
 

 
 


REFERENCES:
 
OLD SOUTH FOLK ART PRINTS BY FLOYD GORDON The Country Farm Home, 2012
 
DENIM BRITCHES QUILTS Duncan Farmstead 2015
 
THE BEGINNING An Introduction, Duncan Farmstead 2015
 
THE QUILTS OF GEES BEND by William Arnett, Alvia Wardlaw, Jane Livingston, John Beardsley, Tinwood Books, 2002         
 
GEES BEND: ARCHITECTURE OF THE QUILT by Paul Arnett, William Arnett, Bernard Herman, Maggi Gordon, Diane Mott, Dilys Blum, Lauren Whitley, Amei Wallach, Joanne Cubbs, Tinwood Books, 2006  
 
AFRICAN AMERICAN-GEES BEND STYLE QUILTS Rocky Mountain Quilts Website
 
WHY SOUTHERN QUILTING? Virginia Crossroads, University of Virginia
 
SOUTHERN QUILTING TRADITIONS University of Virginia
 
SOUTHERN AMERICAN QUILTS Welsh Quilts Blog, 2012
 
 
 
WOMENFOLK Website
 
When the nights became cold each winter, the women would scrounge up what small scraps of fabric they could find and fashion blankets to put on their beds, walls, and floors. . .to help keep the cold, whistling winds of winter at bay. . .


Thursday, October 29, 2015

DELTA QUILT SERIES: Denim Britches Quilts

 
 
"I made all my quilts out of old shirts and dress tails and britches legs. . .whatever part of the pants wasn't wore out, like the pants legs, cause the knees mostly be wore out--we pick cotton on our knees." Loretta Petty, Architecture of the Quilt
 
 
As cooler weather arrives and thoughts of winter come to mind, I--like the Delta women before me--begin to think about keeping the family warm. . .Luckily, all I have to do is turn on the central heat and bring out a few blankets. . .Not so in the past. . .when making quilts for warmth was a necessity for winter survival.
At their very root, utility quilts are just that--objects made for warmth. . .not a lot of value is  placed on precise piecing and stitching. . .or buying new fabrics and pattern books. . .Often, these everyday quilts aren't all that pretty in a traditional sense . . .Yet, once a person realizes that they are in a category of their own. . .and recognizes  characteristics in common. . .the Southern utility quilts take on a certain charm. . These are not the quilts of  affluence. . .They were first and foremost a necessity when the cold winds of Southern winters blew through the tenant houses that were built with poor construction and little insulation. . .Yet, looking beyond the need for warm covers, there is something appealing about these practical everyday quilts. . ...'Make the pieces fit' but in a pleasing manner. . .and use the technique called improvisation to do it. . . 
 
 africanamericanquilts.net
 Example of COTTON WORK PANTS QUILT from GEORGIA 1940s
 

 
 

As I began to research local Delta quilts in the light of those in other Southern states, I found that I had to remind myself to see these quilts in a much different perspective--to see them for what they are. . .to see the beauty of them as a connection to the life of sharecroppers and tenants. . .These quilts tell a story, if we will only look closer.
 
Finding quality examples of Southern utility quilts is not easy. . .simply because most were in use everyday and were not considered to be collectable. . .Over the years, most of the quilts have disappeared. . .The discovery of these three britches quilts was exciting. . .Even though they are in disrepair, they are good examples  of similar ones found on the plantations and farms in Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana. . .
 
Britches or britchy quilts are sometimes called work-clothes quilts. . .They are probably my favorite. . .but the hardest to find thus far. . .Although I don't know the specific stories behind them, I'm certain that the old shirts and denim have seen their share of picking cotton and farm work. . .They have been aged through many washings and much wear and tear. . .
 
'Tenant farmers in the South wore a muted palette of browns, grays, and blues. . .Old denim pants and overalls, field-worn and sun blocked, create a rich spectrum of dusty blues. . .wear-tears, stain, patches, mendings and faded seams provide further nuances. These characteristics are an integral part of the work-clothes aesthetic. . ." Architecture of the Quilt
 
It so happens that two of our vintage britches quilts are similar in construction. . .Of course, any quilt that utilizes denim or any other work pant qualifies. . .I chose these first quilts because they are constructed in the simplest of ways. . .It is the METHOD of piecing that is the key to understanding them. . .
  
 
 
 
The first two examples are sometimes called the 'Lazy Girl'. . .I'm sure you can see why. . .Strips of any good fabric from cast-off work clothes are sewn in vertical rows. . .every inch of that fabric is incorporated. . .including the removed pocket areas where there is less fading. . .The 'batting' in this particular quilt is old work shirts. . .worn and torn. . .laid flat . . .between the top and the backing. . .hand-in-hand with the characteristics of other Southern rural utility quilts: 
  • Strips in vertical rows
  • Every part of the clothing is utilized, including the underneath side of the removed pocket
  • Batting of old work shirts
  • Not enough denim to finish the quilt, so a patch of khaki is added
  • Backing from flour sacks
  • Binding folded over from the back and stitched
  • Use of large utility stitches to hold the three layers together
 




 
 
 
 
 
Here's another example of the 'Lazy Girl' style. . .pieced with the same method yet looking different due to the fabrics at hand. . .
  • Vertical strips
  • Covering another quilt underneath that was too worn to use, making this quilt thick and heavy
  • Backing from printed feed sacks in a random fashion
  • Tacked to hold the layers together
  • Bound by folding the backing to the front and stitching
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



 
Our third britches quilt is a type of medallion pattern at it's simplest form. . .The center is constructed first. . .usually dictated by the largest piece of salvaged fabric the maker has. . .Then strips are added around it until the desired size is achieved. . .fairly traditional. . .but without using a planned and precise pattern. . .It is another 'make-do' creation. . .
  • Use of work clothes
  • Flour sack backing
  • Very thin with only a little fabric as batting
  • Patching of holes in order to make larger pieces of fabric (Love the heart shapes)
  • No matching of fabric patterns in the strips
  • Binding by folding the front to the back and stitching
  • Utility quilting stitches in the Baptist fan style
  • Use of unconventional black thread for quilting, possibly the only color that was on-hand
 
 

 
This quilt would be very easy to copy the method of piecing. . .It would come together fairly quickly. . .I was so excited when I found this one that I could barely contain my enthusiasm while negotiating a price with the owner. . .He saw it as a 'rag'. . .so there wasn't a lot of convincing to do. . .'One man's trash is another wo-man's treasure'. . .(grin)
 
 

 
The britches quilts may look like rags to some. . .and of little value to others. . .but when you look below the surface, you begin to see their connection to farm history. . .Make-do. . .Creative. . .The Remnants of Hard work and Survival. . .Priceless to this Farmer's Daughter.
In future posts, I'll share more techniques of construction and reveal a few of the signs and symbols often incorporated into Delta quilts. . .I have many more to show you. . .We've only begun our journey.
 
 



 
 
 
REFERENCES:
 
GEES BEND: ARCHITECTURE OF THE QUILT, by Paul Arnett, William Arnett, Bernard Herman, Maggi Gordon, Diane Mott, Dilys Blum, Lauren Whitley, Amei Wallach, Joanne Cubbs, Tinwood Books, 2006                                                                       
 
 
AFRICAN AMERICAN QUILTS, http://www.africanamericanquilts.net/